Caravanning Tips

After towing a van for many years, I have a few tips that may be of interest, especially to newcomers to 'The Good Life'.

If you need further information, or have any comments, you can e-mail me at norm@hotkey.net.au

Table of contents

NOTE!

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Item 1 Filtered Water.

Caravan park water supplies are not always as good as we'd like them to be. Putting a filter unit in the line from the caravan park hose connection is a simple method of ensuring a supply of filtered water. In our system we use food grade hose and a pipe support bracket on the bumper bar to hold the filter.

The filter is a Raindance with a 0.5 micron filter. This level of filter is claimed to remove the parasites giardia and cryptosporidum that were the cause of the Sydney water supply problem in June 1998. A hose tap upstream from the filter is a useful outside tap for washing hands etc. The cistern cock downstream from the filter allows you to disconnect the downstream hose to fill personal drinking water bottles or containers etc. Before leaving home, the water storage tanks are filled with filtered water. Since these tanks are only used during breaks when we are travelling, there is sufficient filtered water for several weeks. The unit is easily removed ready for travelling and after returning home. The filter can be used to make your own bottled water. Note! The Raindance unit has instructions that the inlet and outlet have tapered threads and should only be used with tapered thread fittings. I used normal thread fittings with teflon tape, but care must be taken when inserting the fittings to avoid damaging the plastic tapered threads.

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Item 2 Wind down levelling jacks.

First, I strongly recommend that the cranked winder for the levelling jacks which was supplied with the caravan, is modified to make it fit into a cordless drill.

Cut off the cranked offset, leaving only the straight section. Next, grind down the shaft until it fits into the chuck of the cordless drill. Be sure to grind down evenly to ensure it spins evenly in the drill. If you can get it turned down in a lathe, that would be a preferred method. It is advisable to also grind two flats near the turned end, to allow a spanner to be used to turn the shaft if the drill battery is dead. (See the picture on the right.) I haven't yet found myself without sufficient power left in the battery, but I have found on several occasions, I have just enough power to do the job. The rod I'm using on my current van is an old rod from a previous caravan with a socket spanner from the lawn mower spark plug bolted to the end, so it wasn't necessary to cut the winder on the new van.

On our current van, it takes 100 revolutions to move the jack from the horizontal stored (travelling) position, through 90 degrees to a vertical position. Normally the jack would probably need to be wound down to somewhere between 30 to 60 degrees. If the average is 45 degrees, the cordless drill saves me an average of 50 turns on each of the four jacks, down every night and up every morning. I have much better things to do with my time when I arrive at a campsite, such as sitting with my feet up sipping something cold.

If the jacks are not wound down hard, slight rocking on the wheels each time someone walks around the van will soon make the van shake with every movement.

The bearing plates on the jacks are usually only suitable for bearing on a hard surface such as concrete.

If possible, a selection of pieces of timber should be carried, they will be found to be very useful, especially for levelling up the caravan when the site is out of level. I consider it is absolutely essential to carry with me a few spare pieces of timber. Boards which are about 15mm thick are satisfactory, about 150mm or 200 mm square. If these timbers are 50 or 75 mm thick (preferably softwood to minimize weight), perhaps about the size of a brick, it saves winding the jacks down quite so far each time.

Also, unless you have proper axle supports, it is prudent to carry enough thick pieces to make a stable support under the axle in the event that you need to move the jack after removing a wheel. The 50 or 75mm thick pieces can double for the axle supports. If you have two axles, you need double the quantity of packers.

I also carry a piece of flat board about 450mm x 300mm approximately. This is a piece I use under the jockey wheel. (A) to prevent it digging into the grass and (B) to allow me to slew the 'van to the left or right to line up with the trailer ball when hitching up. These timbers are also useful as levelling pads when the site is not level.

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Item 3 Levelling pads and wheel chocks.

Levelling pads and chocks are essential. It is worth spending time making up a few good pieces of equipment that are suitable for your van. If they are coated with linseed oil or painted, they will resist absorbing rainwater, can be easily cleaned after use and will last for years.

Two pads, each about 35mm thick should be enough to solve most 'out of level' sites, but if you're van has double axles, you need double the quantity. With double axles, make sure at least two of the pads are not too long to fit between the wheels as shown in the photograph on the left.

Chocks to stop the wheels moving when parked are also essential, as the caravan hand brake should never be relied on to hold the van. Four chocks are required to put in front and behind both the left and right wheels. Ensure this is done BEFORE unhooking the van. I'll refer to this later in the 'levelling on site' tip.

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Item 4 Levelling the caravan on site.

This is the best procedure that I recommend for levelling up the caravan when I arrive at a site To prevent the nuisance of doors swinging open or shut because the van is out of level and to prevent the van rocking every time someone moves about, it is worth taking the little time necessary to get the van reasonably level and rigid.

Basically, it means levelling the van, then lowering the front slightly before lowering the rear jacks, then wind up the front again to put pressure on the rear jacks to ensure they are firm, then lower the front jacks.

This is the detailed safe sequence.

After I have parked the van in the correct position, and WHILE IT IS STILL HOOKED ON TO THE CAR I first check that the left and right wheels of the van are sufficiently level with each other. If I find that one wheel is in a hollow, this is the time to put down a levelling pad or two behind the wheel so that I can drive the van backwards onto the levelling pads.

NOW THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT BIT.

Whether a wheel is up on pads or not, the possibility exists for the van to move while it is being unhooked and can even roll off the pads, therefore, WHILE THE VAN IS STILL HOOKED ON TO THE CAR, put chocks in front and behind both the right and left van wheels to prevent the van moving when you unhook the car. The caravan hand brake is often not enough to stop the van moving, if it moves only an inch or two while being unhooked it can cause serious damage to you or the car. Having your fingers jammed between the van and the tow ball can seriously ruin your day. You will surely 'spit the dummy" and you will turn into a really miserable person. Not "A Happy Camper".

After unhooking the car, cable and chains and moving it out of the way, I use the following procedure.

1. Wind up the jockey wheel until the van is approximately level. I use a 200mm spirit level resting on the 'A' frame, to ensure the van is level front to back.

2. When the van is level, wind down the jockey wheel one or two turns. Now the van is slightly out of level, with the front being lower than the back.

3. Lower the back levelling jacks on to the bearing pads, as far as they will go.

4. Wind up the jockey wheel to ensure the van is level again. (Now there is a great deal of load on the back levelling jacks, much more than you can put onto the jacks by winding them down. This ensures the van is rigid and doesn't rock every time someone moves.)

5. Now lower the levelling jacks in the front of the van as far as they will go.

6. Wind down the jockey wheel one turn. This takes the load off the jockey wheel and puts more load onto the front jacks.

The van is now level and rigid and will not shake even if you stay on that site for some time.

Winding up the jacks ready to tow away from the site.

The load on the jacks is too great to unwind the jacks without first releasing the load with the correct use and sequence of the jockey wheel

1. Wind the jockey wheel up to lift the front of the van and take the weight off the front levelling jacks.

2. Raise the front levelling jacks to the stowed away towing position.

3. Wind down the jockey wheel to lower the front of the van, (raising the back of the van), taking the weight off the back levelling jacks until they are clear of the bearing plates.

4. Raise the back levelling jacks to the stowed away towing position.

5. Check the approximate height of the towing ball against your leg. (Level with your knee, or a little higher, or a little lower depending on your particular vehicle.)

6. Wind up the jockey wheel until the hitch is about the correct height when measured against your leg, but leave the hitch a little higher than the towing ball. When you reverse to the hitch, you need the hitch to be higher than the towing ball allowing the ball to pass underneath the hitch.

7. Leave the chocks under the wheels until the van is properly hitched on to the car and the van hand-brake is released.

8. When the van is properly hitched to the car, switch on hazard lights to ensure connection is made to the rear lights housing. Remove chocks and check all clearance and brake lights and indicators.

9. Release hand brake. Check around the area for tools etc.

10. After moving away from the site, stop, get out and check that all chains and connections are sound.

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Item 5 Reversing guides.

A simple pair of reversing guides can be made from some off cuts of aluminium and plastic rainwater pipe. The guides need to be long enough to be visible through the rear window of the vehicle. 900mm is suitable for my Ford sedan. On the van, I use an off cut of 90mm PVC pipe, cut to fit snugly around the hitch handle and a piece of aluminium angle, flattened out a bit, to securely fit the curve of the pipe, then pop riveted to the pipe. On the car, a convenient slot in the Hayman Reese hitch takes a press-in piece of flattened aluminium angle. The guides take very little space when stowed, and make it easy to accurately line up the tow ball and hitch when reversing.

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Item 6 Wing Mirrors.

After losing many clip-on wing mirrors to the wind force from trucks passing very close at high speed, I resorted to tying the clip-on to the car mirror with a piece of plastic coated wire. I have now found a small fabric dogs collar with press in plastic fittings which does a neat job of securing the mirror to the car mirrors.

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Item 7 Workbench

A Vyce bolted to a piece of timber 600mm X 200mm X 25mm thick then clamped with an 'F' clamp to the "A" frame tight up to the jockey wheel makes a very useful rigid workbench. A small curved recess in the edge of the 'bench' to fit tight against the jockey wheel tube, helps to keep the 'bench' rigid.

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Item 8 Jockey wheel or jockey plate?

The jockey wheel supplied with our current van has a large 200mm diameter wheel. The Ford Falcon we use for towing seems to be rather low at the tow ball, especially when the heavy Hayman Reece hitch is connected. Also, on many sites, we have found that the car rear wheels are in a depression or drainage gutter, just where the car has to be parked to be hitched to the van. When the jockey wheel is wound down as far as possible, until the outer sleeve rests on the wheel mounting, it is often too high to allow connection to the towing ball.

I have overcome this by using a jockey plate instead of the wheel. The outer sleeve of the jockey plate, (the part that is contained within the 'A' frame bracket), can be wound down 200mm lower than the outer sleeve of the jockey wheel. Since using the plate, I have had no problems, regardless of site levels. With double axles, the jockey 'wheel' is largely redundant as it is impossible to slew the van while resting on the jockey wheel, as is possible with a single axle.

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Item 9 Drainage pipe.

The drain pipe from the kitchen sink to the sullage drain often lays along the ground for a few metres, then has to be raised a little over the rim of the drain to allow the waste water to empty into the sullage drain. When the water has drained, some water remains in the pipe until the next time it is used. However well the pipe is drained, the remaining water will contain food particles, congealed fat etc. however small, which is highly fertile ground for bacteria to colonize.

When leaving the site, try to ensure the outside pipe is flushed out as well as possible and when the pipe is stowed away for travelling, ensure the ends of the pipe are connected to each other to form an endless sealed loop. This doesn't stop the bacteria from multiplying, just confines them to the inside of the pipe. If possible, the pipe should be carried in a separate container. A 100 mm diameter pvc pipe at the back or front of the van can carry a length of 8 metres of the black corrugated 25mm pipe, in a continuous loop. It's a tight fit so I use the TV antenna mast to push the folded pipe into the tube. It's also a convenient place to stow the TV mast.

To sterilize the pipe, consider the following procedure.

After flushing out the pipe, hold the two ends together to ensure that what is poured in one end, doesn't run out the other end. Pour into the pipe some detergent and some disinfectant or bleach, then add a few litres of water. Connect the ends together to form an endless loop, and vigorously shake the pipe to ensure the fluids are mixed well and the mixture is distributed thoroughly throughout the full length of the pipe. Leave the mixture in the pipe while travelling, the vibration will continue to disburse the mixture thoroughly to sterilize the pipe and you can start the next site with an odourless drain pipe.

Vans don't normally have the advantage of a 'U' shaped water seal under the sink as is usual in domestic kitchens and bathrooms, accordingly, it is a good idea each night, to pour a small amount of disinfectant down the sink and leave the plug in to prevent the disinfectant evaporating, this will hep to prevent bacteria colonizing in the van drainage system.

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Item 10 Laundry

Laundry is a daily chore and must be kept under control. Do it daily. Give it the priority it deserves, otherwise, it becomes a major time consuming project every few days.

We find that drying the clothes rather than washing them is the activity that can cause inconvenience.

Be frugal in your use of fresh clothes. It isn't necessary to wear dirty clothes, but some restraint can be practiced. Using things a little longer than you would at home can cut out unnecessary laundry.

Choose easily laundered clothes where possible, drip-dry rather than items that need ironing.

Use thin towels rather than thick towels. Two thin towels are easier to wash and although they need more drying space, will dry much quicker than one thick towel. You can still carry a few thick fluffy towels to use when good drying conditions are available.

Washing can be done while travelling. We carry a 10 litre and a 20 litre bucket with press on lids. Put in some laundry detergent and enough water to cover the clothes. Stir up the water to ensure the detergent is mixed thoroughly, and then loosely drop in the clothes. Don't pack too many items into one bucket. Make sure there is enough space for the clothes to move around freely.

While travelling, I store the bucket jammed up against other equipment in the boot of the sedan, or in the back of the wagon. With station wagons, I have used a stretch hooked strap, wrapped around the bucket and hooked to the tie down bracket. The new caravan has a boot in the front which conveniently carries the 'washing machine'.

The gentle vibration during travelling gets the clothes as clean as any washing machine. As the drying of the clothes is the critical activity, as soon as possible when we arrive at our destination, we rinse out the clothes and hang them out to dry. We find that one bucket is usually enough for two people. We use the second bucket for bed sheets. Except during long periods of rain, we rarely need to use the caravan park washing machines or dryers.

We have used this method for over 30 years and travelled many thousands of Kilometres. (In one year alone, we covered 17,000 Klms). We have never had an 'accident' of water spilling.

Under the front window stone guard, we have put three drying lines. I drilled three small holes in each edge of the guard and threaded a thin line through the holes to make three lines, each more than five feet long. This gives us more than 15 ft of line. These lines are often enough to dry towels, T shirts etc., and also they are under cover from light rain.

We have a shower/toilet cabinet. I have screwed cup hooks into the walls near the roof and strung a line right around the cabinet. If there are any clothes that are not quite dry when we are ready to move off, we hang them in the cabinet while we are travelling. Since the walls are waterproof, no harm is done if the clothes are damp when hung up. I don't know whether it is the warm air in the cabinet generated by the sun on the roof skylight, or the vibration while travelling, producing slight air currents, but most clothes are dry by the time we have reached our destination.

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Item 11 Wardrobe.

Many people have trouble with clothes falling off the hangers on the hanging rails in the wardrobes. A small piece of plastic coated wire to tie all the hangers together in a bunch is better than nothing.

Alternatively, fix to each rail, a piece of aluminium right angle similar to the shape of a figure seven, (7) approximately 50mm in the vertical leg and 30mm in the horizontal leg would be suitable. The horizontal leg rests on top of the rail and is screwed to the rail. The vertical leg has a series of 3mm holes drilled near the bottom big enough to take each individual hanger and located about 30mm apart. Each hanger is secure and does not move while travelling.

We use spring clip hangers for trousers, rather than fold them over the cross bar of the hanger.

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Item 12 Fridge.

Use an office stationery bulldog clip to secure the top of the opened milk cartons.

Lay a heavy towel over the items that are on the shelves, tucked in where possible to prevent them moving.

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Item 13 Cupboards.

Use bulldog clips to seal potato chip packets and cereal packets etc.

Delicate wine glasses don't travel well. But they can be carried safely if turned upside down and placed into expanded polystyrene stubby holders/coolers.

Heavy objects such as electric fry pans, fans, heaters etc. can slide about and cause damage to gas and water lines.

Putting the appliances in boxes, or lining the shelves with non-slip matting can prevent the sliding.

If there is a lot of space on the shelves, allowing the appliances to move around, the space can be filled up with small empty cardboard boxes such as cereal boxes etc.

In the lower cupboards, we set up a system of rails and slide out baskets.

First, get plastic baskets the right width to pass through the cupboard doors. The baskets I used were 'Handy Baskets' from Coles. The biggest basket I used, (almost as big as the van kitchen sink), only cost around $4.00. The smallest, for a very narrow and deep cupboard was only $2.00. This particular cupboard was largely useless as reaching into the back of it was virtually impossible. Now we can get at its contents easily.

To make sliding rails, we fixed two pieces of aluminium angle, resting on one end on the threshold of the cupboard door, while the other end sloped downwards and was screwed to the floor. The distance apart was determined by the size of the baskets. The baskets slide easily along these rails. Storing items in baskets, not only stops objects such as tall containers that should be kept upright, from falling over, and rolling around, but also allows appropriate items (for instance all the vegetables), to be kept together in one easily accessible basket. Also, you can arrange that the least frequently used items are stored in the back, and the most frequently used items are stored nearest the front of the cupboard.

If you need something from the front basket, it can usually be reached from the open door. When a less frequently used item is required, the front basket can be easily slid out to reach the back basket.

Allow me to digress from just mentioning my tips. I must elaborate here.

In respect of the 'sliding basket and rails' project, I have to say that when this project was completed, we were absolutely amazed at how easy it became to get our hands on things that are stowed in the back of the cupboards, compared to the struggle we had before. Previously, we had to stoop down or get down on our (aging) knees. Then we had to try to lift little boxes up over the threshold of the cupboard door to reach something which in my kneeling position was beyond arm's length in the back of the cupboard.

Invariably, this was necessary while trying to get on with the cooking, so while crouched down there, I was ever conscious of the stuff boiling away on the stove above my head.

We never realized how much of an inconvenience and how much difficulty was involved in getting at the back of the lower cupboards.

I must also mention that we are pleasantly surprized how keeping things neatly stored in its relevant basket has generated much more space in our cupboards. It is definitely one of the more successful little projects I have ever thought of. We wouldn't be without the sliding baskets system now. I can thoroughly recommend this project if your van has cupboards where drawers would be more suitable.

In a cupboard that has a door close to the wall, we have fixed a curtain spring to the wall suitable to hold plastic bottles of dish washing liquid, detergent and cream cleaner and insect spray containers etc. in an upright position. The spring is loose enough to push the bottles in between the spring and the wall, but tight enough to prevent them from moving around.

Line shelves with non-slip plastic cloth to prevent loose items sliding about.

If possible, plates and saucers should be stacked on edge, rather than one on top of another. We use a plastic sink drainer, which has been cut down to fit into a pot drawer. If plates and saucers, desert bowls etc. are stacked on top of each other, the coarse textured base of each plate is sufficiently abrasive when combined with the vibration of travelling, to scratch the surface glaze of the plate below.

We put a paper towel between them or preferably, use off-cuts of the non-slip 'cloth'.

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Item 14 Make a false floor for station wagons.

Use two 150mm x 15mm boards on edge for the supports. These will be placed from the back of the seat to the door and placed in a position to split the floor into 3 equal width compartments. To prevent these supports damaging the existing carpet by digging into it and leaving a permanent groove, fix the support boards onto a piece of timber, say 75mm x 15mm in the shape of an inverted T

The false floor can be made of light ply wood. Don't try to make the floor in one piece, it is too difficult to take in and out. It is much easier to split the floor across it's width making a front piece and a rear piece.

The new floor can be covered with an off-cut piece of carpet of similar colour to the main floor carpet. The 170mm deep compartments under the false floor is a place to stow out of sight, any items which should not be left in view and is deep enough to take quite a lot of equipment including tool box, cameras, etc. Stow most frequently needed items nearest to the back door for easy accessibility.

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Item 15 Before leaving on a trip.

Don't leave the vehicle service or modification or repairs until the last day before leaving. It is better to use the vehicle for a day or two after the work is done to allow any problems to show up while you are in your home area, rather than when you are 'on the road'. On one of our trips, a mechanic had omitted to replace a radiator clip securely, resulting in a major repair job, causing us to be stranded for a few days. His mistake would have been discovered without causing a major problem if I had used the car for a few days after having the work done.

Check the towing system. On one occasion, I discovered by extreme good fortune, that the factory fitted tow bar had four of the six bolts missing. The remaining two bolts had the nuts missing and were only just still in the boltholes. This could have led to a very serious incident if one of the remaining bolts fell out while travelling. I replaced the bolts and used Nylock nuts. I check from time to time and now there has been no loosening, despite some 30,000Kms of travel.

If possible, connect the fridge to 240v, at least a day before you leave, to give it a chance to thoroughly chill before your first day 'on the road'.

Make a full list of everything you intend to take in the van and in the car. Especially include the obvious items. Start loading the van a few days earlier if possible. Don't tick items off your list until you are satisfied the items are stowed away in the car or van

This is a suggested list separated into van items, car items and things that must be done before leaving.

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CHECK LIST

VAN; ADDRESS BOOK, PHONE & INSTRUCTION BOOK.

VAN; AEROGUARD & INSECT SPRAY

VAN; BED LINEN, PILLOWS, CASES & TOWELS

VAN; CAMERAS MOVIE &STILL FILMS & BATTERIES

VAN; CARDS & BOARD GAMES

VAN; CASSEROLES & MICROWAVE DISHES

VAN; CHARGERS DRILL, PHONE, SHAVER, MOVIECAMERA.

VAN; CHEQUE BOOK

VAN; CLOTHES & SHOES

VAN; CROCKERY, DISHES & GLASSES

VAN; CUTLERY, COOKING UTENSILS, BOTTLE/CAN OPENER & BBQ TOOLS

VAN; KITCHEN PAPER, CLINGWRAP, BAKING PAPER & ALUMINIUM FOIL.

VAN; LAUNDRY DETERGENT & SOFTENER, BLEACH, CLOTHES PEGS & IRON

VAN; MEDICINES BOX

VAN; RADIO & AUDIOS

VAN; REMINDER LIST OF IMMINENT, REGO, INSURANCE, MEMBERSHIP RENEWALS ETC.

VAN; SAUCEPANS & FRYPANS, ELECTRIC FRYPAN & CORD

VAN; TEA TOWELS, CHUX WIPES, DISHWASHING LIQUID & DISINFECTANT.

VAN; TOILET BAGS, MANICURE SET & HAIR DRYER.

VAN; TOILET ROLLS & TISSUES.

VAN;

VAN;

CAR OR VAN; DRILLS POWERED AND CORDLESS

CAR OR VAN; INSULATED FOOD CARRIERS, THERMOS & KNAPSACK.

CAR OR VAN; JACK FOR CAR AND VAN

CAR OR VAN; JUMPER LEADS & TOWROPE.

CAR OR VAN; MAPS INCLUDING TRANSPARENT ENVELOPES

CAR OR VAN; MINI VAC CLEANER.

CAR OR VAN; REGO AND INSURANCE PAPERS FOR VAN AND CAR

CAR OR VAN; SPARE PAIRS OF GLASSES: READING MATERIAL

CAR OR VAN; TOOL BOX,SHOVEL,AXE,DUCT TAPE,RIVET GUN,SCREWS & RIVETS BOX

CAR OR VAN; TORCH

CAR OR VAN; WRITING MATERIALS, CALCULATOR, ENVELOPES

CAR OR VAN;

CAR OR VAN;

2BDUN; ARRANGE WATERING, MOWING & COLLECTION JUNK MAIL

2BDUN; CLOSE CURTAINS

2BDUN; DIVERT MAIL OR ARRANGE COLLECTION

2BDUN; DIVERT PHONE TO MOBILE

2BDUN; LEAVE CHEQUES 2B PAID

2BDUN; SET TIMER LIGHT TO SWITCH ON EVENINGS

2BDUN; WATER INDOOR PLANTS. PUT OTHER PLANTS OUTSIDE

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http://supanorm.tripod.com/caravan/tips.html
e-mail me norm@hotkey.net.au


Updated September 2001

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INDOOR PLANTS. PUT OTHER PLANTS OUTSIDE ________________________________________ http://supanorm.tripod.com/caravan/tips.html e-mail me norm@hotkey.net.au Updated September 2001 ________________________________________